The Complete Caridina Shrimp Care Guide

What Are Caridina Shrimp?

Caridina is a diverse genus containing over 300 species of freshwater shrimp. In the aquarium hobby, when we talk about “Caridina,” we’re typically referring to four main categories: Crystal Shrimp (CRS/CBS), Taiwan Bee varieties, Tiger Shrimp, and Amano Shrimp. Each has captured the hearts of hobbyists with their stunning patterns and colors.

These shrimp evolved in soft, acidic mountain streams of Asia, developing biology fundamentally different from their Neocaridina cousins. This evolutionary history means Caridina have precise parameter requirements that cannot be compromised.

The Critical Warning You Must Understand

If you set up a tank for Neocaridina and add Caridina, the Caridina will die.

This isn’t an exaggeration or worst-case scenario. It’s what happens when Caridina are placed in water conditions opposite to their biological needs. The hobby is full of stories from well-meaning beginners who lost expensive shrimp because they didn’t understand this fundamental difference.

Caridina require:

• RO/DI water (tap water is generally unsuitable)
• Active buffering substrate (non-negotiable)
• GH+ remineralizer (NOT GH/KH+)
• Acidic pH (5.8-6.8, not neutral)
• Zero or near-zero KH

If any of these requirements seem inconvenient, consider starting with Neocaridina instead. Caridina reward dedicated keepers with stunning colors and fascinating breeding projects, but they punish shortcuts with death.

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Caridina vs Neocaridina: The Key Differences

Understanding these differences is essential before purchasing your first Caridina. These aren’t minor variations; they’re opposite requirements.

Parameter	Neocaridina	Caridina (Crystal/Taiwan Bee)
pH	6.8-8.0 (neutral to alkaline)	5.8-6.8 (acidic)
GH	6-12 dGH	4-6 dGH
KH	2-8 dKH	0-1 dKH
TDS	150-300 ppm	100-150 ppm
Temperature	70-78F (21-26C)	68-74F (20-23C)
RO Water	Optional	Required
Active Substrate	Not needed	Required
Remineralizer	GH/KH+	GH+ only
Difficulty	Beginner	Intermediate-Advanced
Cost	$2-10 per shrimp	$5-500+ per shrimp

Why This Matters

The biological differences run deep:

Osmoregulation: Caridina evolved to absorb minerals from extremely dilute water. Placing them in mineral-rich tap water creates osmotic stress, damaging their cells and organs.

pH Adaptation: Their gill ion exchange and enzyme systems function optimally in acidic conditions. Neutral or alkaline water disrupts basic biological processes.

Shell Formation: While all shrimp need calcium for shells, Caridina need less and have different mineral absorption mechanisms optimized for soft water.

What Caridina Tanks Require (That Neocaridina Don’t)

1. RO/DI System - To start with pure water you can control
2. GH+ Remineralizer - Salty Shrimp Bee Shrimp Mineral GH+ (NOT GH/KH+)
3. Active Buffering Substrate - ADA Amazonia, SL-Aqua Soil, Controsoil, etc.
4. TDS Meter - Essential for monitoring water quality
5. pH Monitor - To track substrate buffering capacity

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All Caridina Varieties

Crystal Shrimp (Caridina cantonensis)

Crystal Shrimp are the foundation of the Caridina hobby. Available in red (CRS) and black (CBS) color forms, they feature the iconic alternating bands that have made them famous.

Crystal Red Shrimp (CRS)

Crystal Red Shrimp are the most iconic Caridina variety. Their alternating red and white bands create a striking appearance that intensifies with higher grades.

The CRS Grading System:

Grade	Description	White Coverage	Typical Price
C	Mostly red, minimal white, translucent areas	Less than 25%	$5-10
B	More white but blotchy, uneven bands	25-35%	$8-15
A	Cleaner bands, brighter colors	35-50%	$12-25
S	Solid white sections, defined bands	50-60%	$20-40
SS	Very white, deep red, symmetric pattern	60-70%	$35-75
SSS	Exceptional pattern, near-opaque white	75%+	$50-150+
SSS+	Competition grade, extreme coloration	85%+	$100-500+

Special Patterns:

• Mosura: White body with red only on head and tail
• Hinomaru: Red circle on the back (Japanese flag pattern)
• No Entry: White body with single red line
• V-Band: V-shaped bands on the tail
• Crown: Pattern resembling a crown on the head

Crystal Black Shrimp (CBS)

Crystal Black Shrimp share identical genetics and care requirements with CRS. The only difference is black pigmentation instead of red. The same grading system applies, and CBS can interbreed with CRS to produce interesting offspring.

Taiwan Bee Varieties

Taiwan Bee shrimp were created by crossing Crystal Shrimp with wild Taiwan Bee genes, resulting in more extreme colors and patterns. They share the same parameter requirements as Crystal Shrimp but tend to be more expensive and slightly more demanding.

All Taiwan Bee share these parameters:

• TDS: 100-150 ppm
• GH: 4-6 dGH
• KH: 0-1 dKH
• pH: 6.0-6.8
• Temperature: 68-74F (cooler preferred)

Blue Bolt

Blue Bolt shrimp display brilliant aquamarine to royal blue coloration. They’re the most popular Taiwan Bee variety, combining stunning color with relative availability. Quality Blue Bolts have deep, consistent color throughout their body.

Black King Kong (BKK)

Black King Kong shrimp are solid black with minimal or no white markings. For many serious keepers, BKK represent the “holy grail” of the hobby. Their deep, velvety black coloration is mesmerizing.

Critical Breeding Note: BKK x BKK breeding has approximately 10% survival rate. This isn’t a parameter problem; it’s genetics. Most experienced breeders cross BKK with Pandas to maintain population while producing BKK offspring.

Red King Kong / Wine Red

Red King Kong shrimp display deep wine-red coloration that’s more intense than standard CRS. They’re rare and command premium prices, appealing to collectors seeking something beyond standard Crystal Shrimp.

Panda Shrimp

Panda shrimp have black or red bodies with thick white bands, creating the distinctive “panda” appearance. They’re popular for their bold pattern contrast and breed more reliably than solid King Kong varieties.

Shadow Panda

Shadow Panda shrimp are similar to regular Pandas but with blue bands instead of white. This stunning variation is rarer and more expensive than regular Pandas. The blue coloration creates a unique, almost ethereal appearance.

Galaxy Pinto

Galaxy Pinto shrimp feature distinctive white “star-like” spots on their cheeks. This pattern is highly prized and commands prices ranging from $50-$400+ per shrimp. Galaxy Pintos represent the high end of Taiwan Bee breeding.

Fishbone Pinto

Fishbone Pinto shrimp have a dorsal stripe with a “fishbone” pattern extending down their sides. The pattern quality varies between individuals, with the best specimens showing clear, symmetric patterns.

Tiger Shrimp

Tiger Shrimp are a different lineage from Crystal and Taiwan Bee varieties. They’re generally hardier and more forgiving of parameter variations.

Tiger Shrimp Parameters (slightly different from Crystal/Taiwan Bee):

• TDS: 120-200 ppm
• GH: 4-8 dGH
• KH: 0-3 dKH
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Temperature: 68-78F

Orange Eye Blue Tiger (OEBT)

Orange Eye Blue Tiger shrimp are stunning with their blue bodies and distinctive orange eyes. However, their care is controversial in the hobby because:

• Parameter recommendations vary widely between sources
• They do NOT breed true (offspring show significant variation)
• Some keepers report success in Caridina setups, others in Neocaridina-like conditions

If keeping OEBT, start with Caridina-style parameters and adjust based on your colony’s response.

Tangerine Tiger

Tangerine Tiger shrimp are orange with tiger stripes. They’re considered the “beginner Caridina” because:

• Most prolific and adaptable Caridina variety
• Tolerate wider parameter ranges than Crystal/Taiwan Bee
• Hardy and forgiving of minor mistakes
• Affordable compared to other Caridina

If you want to try Caridina but feel intimidated, Tangerine Tigers are an excellent starting point.

Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)

Amano Shrimp deserve a separate discussion because their requirements differ significantly from other Caridina.

Key Differences:

• Size: Much larger at 1.5-2.5 inches
• Parameters: Tolerates wide range (TDS 100-300+, GH 6-10, KH 2-8, pH 6.5-7.5, Temp 65-82F)
• RO Water: NOT required
• Active Substrate: NOT required
• Breeding: EXTREMELY difficult (larvae require brackish/saltwater)

Amano Shrimp are famous as the best algae eaters in the hobby. If you just want algae control and don’t care about breeding, Amanos are an excellent choice that can live in standard aquarium conditions.

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Water Parameters (Critical!)

Why Caridina Parameters Are So Specific

Caridina evolved in mountain streams with:

• Extremely soft water (low TDS, low GH)
• Acidic conditions (low pH, no KH buffering)
• Cool temperatures
• Minimal mineral content

Their biology adapted to:

• Absorbing minerals from dilute water through specialized mechanisms
• Regulating internal pH in acidic external conditions
• Functioning at cooler temperatures with slower metabolism

Placing Caridina in “normal” aquarium water causes:

• Osmotic stress from high TDS/mineral content
• pH stress from neutral/alkaline conditions
• Metabolic stress from warm temperatures
• Failed molts from improper mineral ratios
• Immune compromise leading to bacterial infections
• Death (often within days to weeks)

TDS for Caridina

Target Range: 100-150 ppm (optimal 120-140 ppm)

This is MUCH lower than Neocaridina’s 150-300 ppm range.

TDS Range	Assessment
Below 80 ppm	Too low, risk of osmotic issues
100-150 ppm	Optimal for Crystal/Taiwan Bee
150-200 ppm	Acceptable for Tiger Shrimp
Above 200 ppm	Too high for most Caridina

How to achieve correct TDS:

1. Start with RO/DI water (0 TDS)
2. Add Salty Shrimp Bee Shrimp Mineral GH+ to target TDS
3. Never use GH/KH+ (the KH will exhaust your substrate)
4. Test before each water change

For detailed information, see our TDS parameter guide.

GH for Caridina

Target Range: 4-6 dGH (optimal 5-6 dGH)

GH Range	Assessment
Below 3 dGH	Too low, molting issues
4-6 dGH	Optimal
7-8 dGH	Acceptable but high
Above 8 dGH	Risk of problems

Remineralizer: Use Salty Shrimp Bee Shrimp Mineral GH+ (NOT GH/KH+)

For detailed information, see our GH parameter guide.

KH for Caridina

Target Range: 0-1 dKH (optimal: 0 dKH)

This is CRITICAL and commonly misunderstood.

Active substrate buffers pH by absorbing carbonates and releasing humic acids. When you add water with KH (carbonates), the substrate must absorb those carbonates, which:

• Exhausts the substrate’s buffering capacity faster
• Turns 18-month substrate lifespan into 6-12 months
• Leads to pH instability when substrate is exhausted
• Costs you money replacing substrate more often

Rule: Never add KH to Caridina tanks. If your remineralizer contains KH (like Salty Shrimp GH/KH+), you’re using the wrong product.

For detailed information, see our KH parameter guide.

pH for Caridina

Target Range: 5.8-6.8 (optimal 6.0-6.5)

With Caridina, you don’t directly control pH. Instead:

1. Active substrate buffers pH to 5.5-6.5 naturally
2. You maintain this by adding 0 KH water
3. The substrate does the work

If your pH is wrong:

• Rising above 7.0? Substrate may be exhausted
• Falling below 5.5? Unusual, may indicate water quality issues

For detailed information, see our pH parameter guide.

Temperature for Caridina

Target Range: 68-74F (20-23C) for Taiwan Bee, 68-76F (20-24C) for Crystal Shrimp

Caridina prefer cooler temperatures than Neocaridina.

Temperature	Effects
65-68F (18-20C)	Cool but acceptable, very slow metabolism
68-74F (20-23C)	Optimal for Taiwan Bee
68-76F (20-24C)	Acceptable for Crystal Shrimp
Above 78F (26C)	Stress, reduced breeding, shortened lifespan

Benefits of cooler temperatures:

• Slower metabolism = longer lifespan
• Higher dissolved oxygen
• Reduced bacterial growth
• Better color expression

For detailed information, see our temperature parameter guide.

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Tank Setup and Equipment

Required Equipment

Unlike Neocaridina, certain equipment is non-negotiable for Caridina success:

RO/DI System

Why required: Tap water contains minerals, chemicals, and contaminants that harm Caridina.

Options by budget:

• Budget: RO Buddy 3-stage system (~$50-70)
• Mid-range: 4-stage RODI with DI stage (~$100-150)
• Alternative: Buy RO water from your local fish store or grocery store

Target: 0-5 TDS from your RO system

Active Buffering Substrate

What it does: Absorbs carbonates and buffers pH to 5.5-6.5

Recommended brands (in order of preference):

Brand	Buffered pH	Ammonia Leaching	Lifespan	Notes
ADA Amazonia	6.6-6.8	Heavy (6-8 weeks)	12-18 months	Gold standard
ADA Amazonia Light	6.6-6.8	Moderate	12-18 months	Less ammonia cycling
SL-Aqua Soil	6.4-6.6	Light	12-18 months	Popular with breeders
Controsoil	6.2-6.6	Light	4-6 months	Good budget option
Fluval Stratum	6.6-6.8	Light	6-12 months	Weakest buffering

Substrate depth: 1-2 inches minimum

Critical notes:

• Never rinse active substrate
• Never use with tap water containing KH
• ADA Amazonia leeches ammonia initially, requiring 4-8 weeks cycling before adding shrimp

Sponge Filter

Essential for:

• Baby shrimp safety (they can’t be sucked in)
• Biofilm grazing surface
• Gentle water flow

Recommended Tank Setup

10 gallon tank
|-- Substrate: ADA Amazonia Light (1.5" depth)
|-- Filter: Double sponge filter
|-- Heater: 50W adjustable (set to 70-72F)
|-- Lighting: Low-moderate (8 hours)
|-- Plants: Java Moss, Bucephalandra, Anubias
|-- Hardscape: Spider wood, lava rock
|-- Water: RO + Salty Shrimp GH+

The Nitrogen Cycle

Before adding Caridina, your tank must be fully cycled:

• Ammonia: 0 ppm
• Nitrite: 0 ppm
• Nitrate: Below 10 ppm

Cycling active substrate:

1. Set up tank with substrate, filter, plants
2. Add ammonia source (fish food, pure ammonia)
3. Wait 4-6 weeks for cycle to complete
4. ADA Amazonia adds extra time due to ammonia leaching
5. Wait additional 2-4 weeks for biofilm to develop

Total time before adding shrimp: 6-12 weeks minimum

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Feeding Caridina

Feeding Caridina is similar to Neocaridina but requires even more care due to their smaller bioload tolerance in soft water.

Feeding Guidelines

Frequency: Every 2-3 days

Amount: What they consume in 1-2 hours

Warning: Overfeeding in soft water tanks is even more dangerous than in standard tanks. Uneaten food breaks down faster in acidic conditions and can quickly spike ammonia.

Recommended Foods

Biofilm Boosters (Essential):

• Bacter AE (primary recommendation)
• SL-Aqua Milione

These aren’t traditional foods but encourage biofilm growth, which is crucial for Caridina health and baby survival.

Commercial Foods:

• Shrimp King Complete
• Glasgarten Shrimp Dinner
• Borneo Wild
• Shrimp King Mineral (calcium supplement)

Natural Foods:

• Blanched spinach or kale
• Dried mulberry leaves (also slightly lowers pH)
• Indian Almond Leaves

Protein (sparingly):

• Glasgarten Shrimp Dinner Protein
• Bee pollen
• Once per week maximum

Mineral Supplementation

• Mineral Junkie pearls
• Montmorillonite clay
• Cuttlebone (small piece)

These provide additional calcium and trace minerals for healthy molts.

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Breeding Caridina

Why Breeding Is Harder Than Neocaridina

Several factors make Caridina breeding more challenging:

• Narrower parameter tolerance: Less room for error
• Longer maturation: Takes longer to reach sexual maturity
• Smaller clutch sizes: 15-25 eggs vs Neocaridina’s 20-30
• Higher sensitivity during breeding: Stress more easily disrupts reproduction
• Complex genetics (Taiwan Bee): Breeding outcomes aren’t always predictable

Prerequisites for Breeding Success

1. Established, mature tank (3+ months old)
2. Stable parameters maintained for 2-4 weeks
3. Abundant biofilm (add Bacter AE)
4. High-quality diet with occasional protein
5. Dense moss for baby hiding spots
6. Minimal disturbance (don’t constantly move things around)

Breeding Triggers

Caridina typically start breeding when:

• Parameters have been stable for several weeks
• Tank is mature with established biofilm
• Temperature is in optimal range
• Small water change with slightly cooler water (2-3F drop)

Taiwan Bee Genetics

Taiwan Bee genetics are complex because they carry both “bee” and “Taiwan” genes.

Basic principles:

• Like x Like doesn’t always produce like offspring
• BKK x BKK = ~10% survival rate (lethal gene combination)
• BKK x Panda = Better survival, mixed offspring
• Blue Bolt x Blue Bolt = Mostly Blue Bolt offspring

For serious Taiwan Bee breeding projects, study genetics separately. It’s a deep topic that dedicated breeders spend years learning.

Culling

To maintain high-grade colonies:

• Remove low-grade offspring to separate tank
• Select breeding pairs carefully
• Separate by grade level
• Be patient; improving a line takes generations

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Troubleshooting Caridina

Deaths After Adding to Tank

Most common cause: Parameter shock (TDS, temperature, pH mismatch)

Solution: Drip acclimate for 2-4 hours minimum

1. Float bag to equalize temperature (30 minutes)
2. Open bag, add air line with knot for drip control
3. Drip tank water into bag at 1-2 drops per second
4. Continue until bag water volume has tripled
5. Net shrimp into tank (don’t pour bag water in)

For more details, see our acclimation deaths guide.

Substrate Stopped Buffering

Signs:

• pH rising above 7.0
• KH becoming detectable (above 1 dKH)
• Shrimp showing stress

Solutions:

• Partial replacement: Remove 30% of substrate, add fresh
• Full reset: Complete substrate replacement (requires cycling again)
• Temporary: Indian Almond Leaves add mild acidification

For more details, see our exhausted substrate guide.

Bacterial Infections

Signs:

• Milky or cloudy body
• Internal organs visible as dark masses
• Sudden deaths without obvious cause
• Multiple deaths over several days

Emergency protocol:

1. 50% water changes daily for a week (match parameters exactly)
2. Increase aeration significantly
3. Remove dead shrimp immediately
4. Consider UV sterilizer
5. Stop feeding for several days

For more details, see our bacterial infections guide.

Not Breeding After Months

Check:

• Tank maturity (need 3+ months)
• Parameter stability
• Temperature (try 70-72F)
• Biofilm presence (add Bacter AE)
• Sex ratio (need both males and females)
• Stress factors (tankmates, disturbances)

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Frequently Asked Questions

See the FAQ section in the sidebar for the 8 most common questions about Caridina care.

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Track Your Caridina with ShrimpKeeper

Caridina require precise parameters. Guessing isn’t an option when a single shrimp can cost $50-400.

The ShrimpKeepersapp was designed for keepers who take their parameters seriously.

Features built for Caridina keepers:

• Caridina-specific parameter ranges with instant feedback
• TDS tracking with optimal targets for Crystal/Taiwan Bee vs Tiger
• Substrate age tracking so you know when buffering will exhaust
• Remineralization calculator for Salty Shrimp GH+ and other products
• Historical graphs to detect parameter drift before it becomes a problem

Stop relying on memory and guesswork. Your investment in quality Caridina deserves quality tracking.

Download ShrimpKeeper and give your Caridina the precision care they need.

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Related Guides

Explore more shrimp keeping guides:

• Neocaridina Shrimp Care Guide: If Caridina seem too demanding, start with these hardy, colorful beginner shrimp.

• Sulawesi Shrimp Care Guide: Ready for the next challenge? Sulawesi shrimp have completely different requirements (high pH, high temperature) that make them the ultimate advanced species.

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This guide synthesizes information from scientific literature, manufacturer specifications (Salty Shrimp, SL-Aqua, ADA), and experienced hobbyist communities including Aquarium Breeder, The Shrimp Farm, Flip Aquatics, and r/shrimptank. Water parameters have been verified across multiple authoritative sources.