Symptoms to Look For
Check if your shrimp are showing any of these symptoms. Symptoms are grouped by severity to help you assess the situation.
Moderate
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No juvenile shrimp in colony despite breeding
Visual: Only adults visible, no small/medium shrimp
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Colony not growing despite regular breeding
Visual: Population static over months
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Few surviving juveniles are small/stunted
Visual: Juveniles not growing at normal rate
Severe
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Berried females release babies but shrimplets never seen
Visual: Empty after birth - no visible baby shrimp anywhere
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Shrimplets seen at birth but disappear within days
Visual: Babies visible briefly then gone
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Dead shrimplets found in filter or tank
Visual: Tiny bodies discovered during maintenance
Does this match what you see? If your shrimp are showing multiple severe symptoms, act immediately. Early symptoms give you more time to correct the issue.
Possible Causes
Causes are listed by likelihood. Start with the most common causes and work your way down.
Filter Intake Suction
The #1 killer of shrimplets. Standard filter intakes are powerful enough to suck in tiny shrimplets (1-2mm) or trap them against the intake screen. HOB filters and canister filters are particularly problematic.
Check your filter intake - is it bare or covered with a fine sponge? Have you found dead shrimplets in your filter during cleaning?
Starvation / Lack of Biofilm
Shrimplets are too small to eat adult shrimp food and rely entirely on biofilm and microorganisms. New tanks or overly clean tanks lack the biofilm babies need to survive.
Is your tank mature (3+ months)? Do surfaces have visible biofilm (brownish coating on glass, rocks, wood)? New or 'too clean' tanks starve shrimplets.
Predation by Fish
Even 'shrimp-safe' fish will eat shrimplets. Baby shrimp are tiny (1-2mm) and look like food to almost any fish. Many fish that ignore adults will readily eat babies.
Do you have any fish? Even small tetras, rasboras, and other nano fish will eat shrimplets. Only a species-only tank guarantees safety.
Predation by Other Invertebrates
Some invertebrates prey on shrimplets: assassin snails, crayfish, and even large adult shrimp if starving. Planaria and hydra specifically target shrimplets.
Check for planaria (flat white worms, triangular head) or hydra (small tentacled polyps). Both prey on shrimplets.
Poor Water Quality
Shrimplets are more sensitive to water quality issues than adults. Ammonia, nitrite, or high nitrate levels that adults tolerate may kill shrimplets.
Test water parameters. Even trace ammonia/nitrite that adults survive may kill shrimplets. Keep nitrates under 20 ppm.
Temperature Extremes
Shrimplets are more sensitive to temperature, both high and low. Temperatures that stress adults can kill babies.
Is your tank stable temperature? Fluctuations and extremes (below 65F or above 82F for Neocaridina) are risky.
Adult Shrimp Cannibalism (When Starving)
In extreme cases of food shortage, adult shrimp may eat shrimplets. This is rare with proper feeding but happens in underfed tanks.
Are you feeding adequately? Starving adults may resort to cannibalism. This is uncommon with any reasonable feeding schedule.
Solutions
Option 1: Protect Shrimplets from Filter Intake
- 1
Add sponge pre-filter to all intakes
Install fine-pored sponge pre-filters on all filter intakes immediately. These block shrimplets while still allowing water flow.
Standard coarse pre-filters may not be fine enough - use shrimp-specific sponge pre-filters
- 2
Consider switching to sponge filter
Sponge filters are ideal for shrimp tanks - no intake danger, and the sponge itself is a biofilm feeding surface.
- 3
Cover any powerheads or wavemakers
Any water movement device can pull in shrimplets. Cover all intakes and outlets with sponge or fine mesh.
- 4
Check filter during cleaning
Inspect filter media during cleaning - if you find dead shrimplets, your pre-filter isn't working or wasn't in place.
Recommended Products
These are informational recommendations only. Not affiliated with any brands.
Option 2: Ensure Adequate Food Supply for Shrimplets
- 1
Verify tank maturity
Shrimplets need a mature tank (3+ months old minimum) with established biofilm. Surfaces should have visible brownish coating.
- 2
Add biofilm-boosting supplements
Add Bacter AE or similar biofilm enhancer to boost microbial growth. Shrimplets graze on these microorganisms.
- 3
Add surfaces for biofilm growth
More surface area = more biofilm = more food. Add driftwood, Indian Almond Leaves, cholla wood, and mosses.
- 4
Feed powder foods for shrimplets
Special shrimplet powder foods are small enough for babies to eat. Add sparingly - a tiny pinch once daily.
- 5
Don't over-clean surfaces
Resist the urge to scrub all surfaces. That biofilm is your shrimplets' food source.
Recommended Products
These are informational recommendations only. Not affiliated with any brands.
Option 3: Eliminate Predation
- 1
Identify all tank inhabitants
Make a complete list of everything in your tank: fish, snails, other invertebrates. Research each for shrimplet safety.
- 2
Remove or rehome predators
If you have fish, even 'shrimp-safe' ones, consider a species-only tank for breeding. Most fish eat shrimplets.
- 3
Check for pest predators
Look carefully for planaria (white flat worms) and hydra (small tentacled polyps). Both prey on shrimplets.
- 4
Treat planaria/hydra if found
Use No-Planaria (fenbendazole) to eliminate both planaria and hydra. Safe for adult shrimp at proper dosage.
- 5
Provide extensive hiding places
If removing fish isn't possible, provide dense moss, plants, and hiding spots where shrimplets can escape predators.
Recommended Products
These are informational recommendations only. Not affiliated with any brands.
Prevention Tips
Follow these practices to help prevent this problem from occurring in the future.
- Always use sponge pre-filters on all filter intakes - this is non-negotiable for breeding tanks
- Consider switching to a sponge filter which is inherently shrimplet-safe
- Maintain a mature tank (3+ months) with established biofilm before expecting shrimplet survival
- Add biofilm boosters like Bacter AE, especially in newer tanks
- Add Indian Almond Leaves and driftwood for natural biofilm surfaces
- Keep a species-only tank if you want maximum shrimplet survival
- Check for planaria and hydra regularly - treat promptly if found
- Don't over-clean tank surfaces - biofilm is shrimplet food
- Maintain stable, clean water parameters - shrimplets are more sensitive than adults
- Feed adults enough so they never get desperate enough to eat shrimplets
Related Parameters to Monitor
Track These Parameters with ShrimpKeeper
Get alerts when your parameters drift out of range, see historical trends, and catch problems before they become emergencies.
Download FreeShrimplet mortality is one of the most common frustrations for shrimp keepers trying to grow their colonies. Understanding why babies die when adults thrive requires understanding the unique vulnerabilities of shrimplets. Newborn shrimplets are tiny - typically 1-2mm long. At this size, they face threats that simply don't apply to adults: **Filter Intake**: This is the #1 killer and the most preventable cause. A standard HOB or canister filter intake creates suction that can easily trap or pull in tiny shrimplets. Many keepers wonder where their babies go, then find dozens of dead shrimplets when cleaning their filter. A simple sponge pre-filter eliminates this entirely. **Starvation**: Shrimplets cannot eat the pellets and wafers we feed adults - they're too small. Instead, they rely entirely on biofilm (the brownish coating of bacteria and microorganisms on surfaces) and infusoria (microscopic organisms). New tanks and 'clean' tanks lack these food sources. This is why established tanks (3+ months) are critical for shrimplet survival. **Predation**: Even 'shrimp-safe' fish will eat shrimplets. A baby shrimp is basically fish food in shape and size. Tetras, rasboras, danios, bettas, guppies - all will eat shrimplets if they can catch them. Only a completely species-only tank guarantees shrimplet safety from fish predation. Planaria and hydra deserve special mention as shrimp-specific predators. Planaria are flatworms that can catch and consume even adult shrimp but particularly target slow-moving shrimplets. Hydra are tiny tentacled creatures that sting and capture passing shrimplets. Both can decimate baby populations while adults seem fine. **Parameter Sensitivity**: Shrimplets are simply more fragile. Water quality issues that adults tolerate may kill babies. This is why breeding tanks should have pristine water quality, not just 'acceptable' levels. Successful shrimp breeding requires addressing all three factors: filter protection, adequate biofilm food, and predator-free environment. Miss any one and shrimplet survival drops dramatically.
Frequently Asked Questions
The three most common causes are filter intake (babies sucked in), starvation (no biofilm food), and predation (fish or pests eating them). Start by checking your filter - if it doesn't have a fine sponge pre-filter, that's likely the culprit. Then verify your tank is mature enough (3+ months) for biofilm, and evaluate any fish or pests.
Not necessarily, but the tank needs biofilm. Shrimplets eat the bacterial biofilm on surfaces, not regular shrimp food. A mature tank provides this naturally. You can supplement with Bacter AE to boost biofilm, or use special powder foods for shrimplets. The key is a mature, established tank - new tanks lack the food babies need.
Yes, almost always. Baby shrimp are 1-2mm - basically fish food size. Even 'shrimp-safe' fish like ember tetras, CPDs, or otos may eat shrimplets if they can catch them. The only way to guarantee shrimplet safety is a species-only shrimp tank. Fish can coexist with adults but will impact baby survival.
Add a sponge pre-filter over all filter intakes. These are cylindrical foam pieces that fit over the intake tube. Use fine-pored versions designed for shrimp. Alternatively, switch to a sponge filter which has no intake danger. Check your filter during cleaning - if you find dead babies inside, your protection isn't adequate.
Planaria are white flat worms with triangular heads that can catch and eat shrimplets (and even attack adults). Hydra are tiny polyps with tentacles that sting and capture passing shrimplets. Both are serious predators. Look closely at your tank - planaria glide on surfaces, hydra attach to hard surfaces. Treat with No-Planaria (fenbendazole) if found.
Shrimplets are vulnerable for about 4-6 weeks until they reach 5-6mm. However, it's best to keep sponge pre-filters permanently since you'll hopefully always have new babies. There's no good reason to remove filter protection from a breeding tank.
Usually not necessary and can be stressful. Adult shrimp don't normally eat shrimplets unless severely starving. The bigger risks are filter intake, fish predation, and starvation - separating doesn't help these and can stress babies. Keep them together in a well-prepared tank.
Track Your Parameters with ShrimpKeeper
Most shrimp problems stem from parameter issues. Track your water quality, get alerts when things drift, and prevent problems before they happen.