About Cherry Shrimp
Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are the most popular freshwater shrimp in the aquarium hobby, and for good reason. Originally from Taiwan, these hardy little invertebrates have been selectively bred for decades to produce the vibrant red coloration we see today. Their scientific name was changed from Neocaridina heteropoda in 2013, though many hobbyists still use the old name. What makes Cherry Shrimp exceptional for beginners is their remarkable adaptability. Unlike their Caridina cousins that require precise water parameters, Cherry Shrimp can thrive in a wide range of conditions. They readily accept tap water in most areas, don't require expensive RO systems, and can tolerate parameter fluctuations that would stress more sensitive species. Cherry Shrimp are also prolific breeders, earning them the nickname 'rabbits of the shrimp world.' In a well-established tank with stable parameters and plenty of biofilm, a small colony can quickly grow into dozens or even hundreds of shrimp. This makes them perfect for aquascaping, algae control, or simply enjoying their entertaining grazing behavior.
Quick Facts
Water Parameters for Cherry Shrimp
Maintaining stable water parameters is crucial for the health and coloration of Cherry Shrimp. As a Neocaridina species, they are relatively hardy and can tolerate a wider range of parameters than Caridina species.
| Parameter | Range | Optimal |
|---|---|---|
| TDS | 150-300 ppm | 180-250 ppm |
| GH | 4-14 dGH | 6-8 dGH |
| KH | 2-8 dKH | 2-5 dKH |
| pH | 6.5-8 | 6.8-7.5 |
| Temperature | 64-82°F (18-28°C) | 68-75°F |
Tank Setup for Cherry Shrimp
- Use fine-grain substrate like sand or small gravel - active substrates are unnecessary for Neocaridina
- Plant heavily with easy plants like Java Fern, Anubias, and various mosses for grazing surfaces
- Sponge filters are ideal - they're shrimp-safe and provide additional biofilm surfaces
- Include driftwood and rocks to create hiding spots and additional grazing areas
- Ensure good water circulation without strong flow - shrimp prefer calmer waters
Care Tips for Cherry Shrimp
- Keep in groups of at least 10 for optimal coloring and breeding behavior
- Provide plenty of hiding spots with plants, driftwood, and moss - Java Moss is particularly beneficial
- Avoid copper-based medications as copper is lethal to all invertebrates
- Perform small, frequent water changes (10-15% weekly) rather than large infrequent ones
- Ensure the tank is fully cycled before adding shrimp - they are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite
- Add Indian Almond Leaves or alder cones for biofilm development and mild antibacterial benefits
- Avoid housing with fish that may prey on shrimplets - only nano fish like Ember Tetras are safe
Feeding Cherry Shrimp
- Primary diet should be biofilm and aufwuchs that naturally grow on surfaces - a mature tank is essential
- Supplement with quality shrimp-specific foods 2-3 times per week - avoid overfeeding
- Blanched vegetables like zucchini, spinach, and cucumber are excellent treats
- Provide calcium sources like cuttlebone or mineral supplements for healthy molting
- Remove uneaten food within 2-3 hours to prevent water quality issues
Breeding Cherry Shrimp
- Females become berried (carrying eggs) approximately every 30-45 days in good conditions
- Look for the 'saddle' - a yellowish area behind the head where eggs develop before moving to the undercarriage
- Shrimplets are miniature versions of adults and require no special care, but ensure there's enough biofilm
- Higher grades breed true more reliably - culling lower grade offspring helps maintain colony quality
- Avoid large water changes while females are berried as parameter swings can cause them to drop eggs
Cherry Shrimp Grading System
Cherry Shrimp are commonly graded based on color intensity, coverage, and pattern quality. Higher grades typically command higher prices and are the result of selective breeding.
Cherry Grade
Entry-level grade with mostly translucent body and patches of red coloring. Often sold as 'regular' or 'low grade' Cherry Shrimp.
Characteristics
- Mostly translucent body
- Scattered red patches
- Color may be pale pink to light red
- Legs often clear
Sakura Grade
Mid-grade with more consistent red coloring covering most of the body, though some translucent areas may remain on the underside.
Characteristics
- Red coloring covers most of body
- May have translucent underbelly
- More vibrant than Cherry grade
- Legs may show some color
Fire Red Grade
High-grade shrimp with solid red coloring throughout the body. Minimal to no translucent areas visible.
Characteristics
- Solid red throughout body
- No or minimal translucent patches
- Legs show red coloring
- Bright, vibrant red color
Painted Fire Red (PFR)
The highest grade with completely opaque, deep red coloring. Even the legs are solid red with no transparency.
Characteristics
- Completely opaque coloring
- Deep, rich red throughout
- Solid red legs
- No translucent areas anywhere
Grades listed from lowest to highest quality
Common Problems with Cherry Shrimp
- Sudden deaths often indicate parameter swings, particularly after water changes or new additions
- Failed molts can occur from insufficient calcium or mineral content in the water
- Color fading may be caused by stress, poor diet, or low-grade genetics
- Planaria and hydra can prey on shrimplets - treat with fenbendazole if present
- Bacterial infections appear as milky coloration and require quarantine and pristine water conditions
Troubleshooting Cherry Shrimp
Neocaridina are hardy but still sensitive to sudden parameter changes. Here are common problems to watch for:
Failed Molt: Shrimp Stuck in Shell
Understanding failed molts where shrimp cannot escape their old exoskeleton. Learn why it happens, why affected shrimp cannot be saved, and how to prevent future molt failures.
Why Are My Shrimp Dying?
Comprehensive triage guide for unexplained shrimp deaths. Learn to identify the cause and take immediate action to save your remaining colony.
White Ring of Death in Shrimp
Understanding the dreaded white ring or white line that appears around a shrimp's body, signaling a fatal molting problem that cannot be reversed once visible.
Baby Shrimp (Shrimplets) Dying
Why newborn shrimp disappear or die when adult shrimp seem healthy. Covers filter intake, predation, starvation, and sensitivity issues specific to shrimplets.
Bacterial Infection in Shrimp
Identifying and treating bacterial infections in aquarium shrimp. Learn to recognize symptoms and understand why prevention through water quality is more effective than treatment.
Planaria in Shrimp Tank
Identifying and eliminating planaria flatworms that prey on shrimp, especially shrimplets. Learn safe treatment methods that won't harm your colony.
Cherry Shrimp FAQ
A 10-gallon tank can comfortably house 50-100 Cherry Shrimp. The general rule is 2-5 shrimp per gallon, but with proper filtration and plants, you can maintain higher densities. Start with 10-20 and let the colony naturally grow to capacity.
It depends on the individual Betta's temperament. Some Bettas will ignore adult shrimp while others will hunt them. Shrimplets are almost always at risk. If attempting this combination, provide dense plant cover and be prepared to separate them if the Betta shows aggression.
Common causes include ammonia/nitrite spikes in uncycled tanks, copper from medications or pipes, sudden parameter changes from large water changes, or diseases like bacterial infections. Test your water parameters and look for any recent changes to the tank environment.
Color intensity is primarily genetic, but can be enhanced through: feeding color-enhancing foods with astaxanthin, using dark substrates that contrast with their color, maintaining stable parameters, reducing stress, and selectively breeding higher-grade individuals.
In most homes at room temperature (68-75F), Cherry Shrimp don't require a heater. However, if your room temperature drops below 65F or fluctuates significantly, a heater helps maintain stable conditions. Stability is more important than hitting exact temperatures.
In good conditions, female Cherry Shrimp can become berried every 30-45 days. They carry eggs for about 28-35 days before releasing 20-30 fully-formed shrimplets. A single female can produce multiple batches per year.
Baby Cherry Shrimp (shrimplets) eat biofilm and microorganisms that naturally grow on surfaces in established tanks. No special food is required, but ensure your tank has mature biofilm growth. Adding Indian Almond Leaves and maintaining good surface area helps.
Track Your Cherry Shrimp Parameters
Stop guessing. Start tracking. ShrimpKeeper gives you species-specific parameter ranges, instant diagnostics, and historical graphs for your Cherry Shrimp colony.