The Complete Neocaridina Shrimp Care Guide

What Are Neocaridina Shrimp?

Neocaridina davidi (formerly classified as Neocaridina heteropoda) are the most popular freshwater aquarium shrimp in the hobby, and for good reason. Native to Taiwan and parts of China, these hardy little crustaceans have captured the hearts of aquarists worldwide with their vibrant colors, peaceful nature, and surprisingly easy care requirements.

If you’re looking to start your journey into shrimp keeping, Neocaridina are the perfect choice. Unlike their more demanding cousins, Caridina shrimp, Neocaridina are remarkably forgiving of beginner mistakes. They tolerate a wide range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater without any special conditions, and come in virtually every color of the rainbow.

Why Neocaridina Are Perfect for Beginners

There are several reasons why experienced shrimp keepers unanimously recommend Neocaridina for newcomers:

• Hardy and adaptable: They tolerate parameter fluctuations that would stress or kill other shrimp species
• Tap water friendly: Most people can use dechlorinated tap water without expensive RO systems
• No special substrate needed: Unlike Caridina, they don’t require active buffering substrates
• Easy breeding: They reproduce readily, and babies are miniature adults that don’t need special care
• Affordable: Starting colonies cost a fraction of Caridina or Sulawesi species
• Colorful: Available in red, blue, yellow, orange, green, black, white, and countless pattern variations

What’s the Difference Between Neocaridina and Caridina?

This is one of the most important distinctions in shrimp keeping. While both are dwarf freshwater shrimp, they have fundamentally different requirements:

Parameter	Neocaridina	Caridina
pH	6.8-8.0 (neutral to alkaline)	5.8-6.8 (acidic)
GH	6-12 dGH	4-6 dGH
KH	2-8 dKH	0-1 dKH
TDS	150-300 ppm	100-150 ppm
RO Water	Optional	Required
Active Substrate	Not needed	Required
Difficulty	Beginner	Intermediate-Advanced

If you’re new to shrimp keeping, start with Neocaridina. Once you’ve mastered their care and want a new challenge, you can explore Caridina species or even Sulawesi shrimp.

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All Neocaridina Varieties

One of the most exciting aspects of keeping Neocaridina is the incredible variety of colors and patterns available. All color variations are the same species (Neocaridina davidi) and share identical care requirements. The only difference is their appearance.

Important Warning: All Neocaridina varieties WILL interbreed if kept together. While they coexist peacefully, their offspring will gradually revert to wild-type brown or clear coloration over 2-3 generations. To maintain color purity, keep only one variety per tank.

Red Varieties

Cherry Shrimp (RCS)

Cherry Shrimp are the original and most popular Neocaridina variety. They range from pale pink to deep red depending on their grade:

Grade	Description	Color Coverage
Cherry	Lightest, mostly clear with red spots	20-30%
Sakura	More solid red, some translucency	50-70%
Fire Red	Deep red with minimal translucency	80-90%
Painted Fire Red	Solid opaque red, legs included	95-100%

Higher grades command higher prices but have the same care requirements. Sakura grade offers the best value for most hobbyists.

Bloody Mary

Bloody Mary shrimp display a stunning deep crimson coloration that comes from pigment in their tissue rather than their shell. This gives them a unique appearance compared to Cherry Shrimp. They originated from the Chocolate line and feature a slightly shorter rostrum (the spike between their eyes). Their color appears more “internal” and glowing compared to the shell-based color of Cherry Shrimp.

Blue Varieties

Blue Dream

Blue Dream shrimp are arguably the most striking blue variety, with deep sapphire coloration that’s completely opaque. They descended from Carbon Rili shrimp and display their best color on dark substrates. Blue Dreams are known for their consistent, intense blue color that doesn’t fade easily.

Blue Velvet

Blue Velvet shrimp have a lighter, translucent sky-blue appearance compared to Blue Dreams. They originated from the Red Rili line and are remarkably hardy, tolerating GH levels up to 20 dGH. This makes them an excellent choice for keepers with harder tap water.

Blue Jelly

Blue Jelly shrimp have a semi-transparent, ethereal blue appearance. Due to their genetics, they may occasionally show red spots from their ancestry. While some consider this a flaw, others appreciate the unique appearance it creates.

Yellow Varieties

Yellow Shrimp / Neon Yellow

Yellow Shrimp display bright sunshine yellow coloration. They originated in Germany in the early 2000s and have become popular for their vibrant appearance. The “Neon Yellow” variant is particularly intense. Some individuals develop a Golden Back variation with a distinctive dorsal stripe running along their back.

Orange Varieties

Orange Sakura

Orange Sakura shrimp range from translucent to solid orange. Some hobbyists report they’re slightly less hardy than other varieties, though this is debated. They’re less common than red or blue varieties but make a beautiful addition to any collection.

Green Varieties

Green Jade

Green Jade shrimp display emerald to olive green coloration that intensifies with age. They’re known for occasionally turning blue when stressed, which returns to green once conditions stabilize. Mature Green Jades with deep coloration are particularly stunning.

Brown and Black Varieties

Chocolate

Chocolate shrimp have a rich brown coloration and are genetically related to Bloody Mary and Black Rose varieties. They’re less common but appreciated for their unique earth-toned appearance.

Black Rose

Black Rose shrimp display deep velvety black coloration. They stand out beautifully on light-colored substrates, creating a dramatic contrast. Achieving and maintaining truly black coloration requires good genetics and optimal conditions.

White Varieties

Snowball / White Pearl

Snowball shrimp are technically a closely related species (Neocaridina zhangjiajiensis) but have identical care requirements. They’re named for their pure white eggs that look like tiny snowballs. Snowball shrimp are known for being extremely prolific breeders, often outpacing other Neocaridina varieties.

Rili Pattern Varieties

Rili shrimp have a distinctive pattern with colored head and tail sections separated by a clear or translucent midsection.

Red Rili

Red Rili shrimp were the original Rili pattern, featuring red coloration on the head and tail with a clear middle section. They’re the ancestors of many blue varieties through selective breeding.

Blue Rili

Blue Rili shrimp display blue or purple patches combined with clear sections. The exact pattern varies between individuals, making each one unique.

Carbon Rili

Carbon Rili shrimp have black or dark blue coloration with a clear midsection. They’re the ancestral variety to many blue Neocaridina, including Blue Dream. Carbon Rilis are prized for their striking contrast between dark and clear sections.

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Water Parameters Explained

Understanding water parameters is the foundation of successful shrimp keeping. While Neocaridina are forgiving, maintaining proper parameters ensures healthy molts, vibrant colors, successful breeding, and long lifespans.

Why Parameters Matter

Improper parameters lead to:

• Failed molts (the leading cause of shrimp death)
• Reduced breeding or complete cessation
• Shortened lifespan
• Poor coloration
• Increased disease susceptibility

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)

What it measures: The total concentration of dissolved minerals, salts, and organic matter in your water.

TDS Range	Assessment
Below 100 ppm	Too low - soft shells, molting issues
150-250 ppm	Optimal range
250-350 ppm	Acceptable but on the high end
Above 350 ppm	Risk of osmotic stress

TDS is important because shrimp regulate their internal salt and mineral balance relative to the surrounding water. Large TDS differences during water changes can cause osmotic shock, which is often the real culprit in “mysterious” post-water-change deaths.

How to adjust:

• To raise: Add remineralizer like Salty Shrimp GH/KH+
• To lower: Dilute with RO water or use RO water for water changes

For detailed information, see our TDS parameter guide.

GH (General Hardness)

What it measures: Calcium and magnesium concentration, essential for exoskeleton formation.

GH Range	Assessment
Below 4 dGH	High risk of White Ring of Death
4-6 dGH	Monitor closely
6-12 dGH	Optimal range (ideal: 7-9 dGH)
Above 14 dGH	Shells may become too hard to molt properly

GH is critical for Neocaridina. The calcium and magnesium in your water directly contribute to shell formation during molting. Low GH is the primary cause of the dreaded White Ring of Death.

How to adjust:

• To raise: Salty Shrimp GH/KH+, crushed coral, cuttlebone
• To lower: Dilute with RO water

For detailed information, see our GH parameter guide.

KH (Carbonate Hardness)

What it measures: Buffering capacity, which prevents pH crashes.

KH Range	Assessment
Below 2 dKH	Risk of pH crashes
2-8 dKH	Optimal range (ideal: 3-5 dKH)
Above 10 dKH	Generally unnecessary

KH acts as a “buffer” that absorbs acids and prevents sudden pH drops. Without adequate KH, your pH can crash overnight, especially in heavily planted tanks or tanks with organic waste buildup.

Important: Unlike Caridina which need 0 KH, Neocaridina benefit from KH for pH stability.

For detailed information, see our KH parameter guide.

pH

What it measures: Acidity/alkalinity on a scale of 0-14.

pH Range	Assessment
Below 6.5	Too acidic for Neocaridina
6.8-8.0	Acceptable range
7.0-7.5	Optimal range
Above 8.5	Too alkaline

Critical principle: Stability matters more than hitting exact numbers. Shrimp adapt to consistent conditions better than fluctuating “ideal” parameters. A stable pH of 7.8 is better than a pH that swings between 6.8 and 7.4.

Unlike Caridina, Neocaridina do NOT need acidic conditions. They thrive in neutral to slightly alkaline water.

For detailed information, see our pH parameter guide.

Temperature

What it measures: Water temperature affecting metabolism, breeding, and oxygen levels.

Temperature	Effects
65-68F (18-20C)	Slower metabolism, larger size, more females
70-76F (21-24C)	Optimal for breeding and health
78-82F (26-28C)	Faster breeding but shorter lifespan
Above 84F (29C)	Stress, reduced breeding, oxygen concerns

Temperature significantly affects shrimp behavior and health. Cooler temperatures slow metabolism, resulting in larger shrimp and potentially longer lifespans. Warmer temperatures accelerate breeding but can shorten lifespan.

Breeding tip: A small temperature drop during water changes (2-3 degrees) can trigger mating behavior.

For detailed information, see our temperature parameter guide.

Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

These nitrogen cycle parameters must be monitored, especially in newer tanks:

Parameter	Target
Ammonia	0 ppm (always)
Nitrite	0 ppm (always)
Nitrate	Below 20 ppm (preferably below 10 ppm)

Any detectable ammonia or nitrite indicates a cycling problem. Shrimp are very sensitive to these compounds, and even low levels cause stress, reduced immunity, and death.

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Tank Setup Requirements

Tank Size

• Minimum: 5 gallons (19 liters)
• Recommended: 10+ gallons (38+ liters)

Larger tanks provide more stable parameters and are actually easier to maintain. Water quality fluctuates less, giving you more margin for error. A 10-gallon tank is ideal for beginners.

Substrate

For Neocaridina, use inert substrates that don’t alter water chemistry:

Recommended:

• Pool filter sand
• Eco-Complete
• Fluval Stratum (non-buffering version)
• Aquarium gravel
• Black diamond blasting sand

Not recommended for Neocaridina:

• Active/buffering substrates (ADA Amazonia, etc.) - unnecessary and can lower pH too much
• Substrates that raise GH/KH excessively

Dark substrates enhance shrimp coloration, while light substrates make shrimp appear washed out. For the most vibrant colors, choose black or dark brown substrate.

Filtration

Best choice: Sponge filters

Sponge filters are ideal for shrimp tanks because:

• No risk to baby shrimp (shrimplets can’t be sucked in)
• Provide excellent surface area for biofilm grazing
• Gentle water flow that doesn’t stress shrimp
• Reliable and affordable

If using hang-on-back (HOB) or canister filters, always cover the intake with a pre-filter sponge to protect baby shrimp.

Plants

Live plants are highly recommended for Neocaridina tanks:

Excellent choices:

• Java Moss: The gold standard for shrimp tanks. Provides hiding spots for babies and surfaces for biofilm growth
• Java Fern: Hardy, low-maintenance, doesn’t need planting
• Anubias: Another bulletproof option that provides grazing surfaces
• Floating plants (Frogbit, Salvinia, Red Root Floaters): Absorb excess nitrates and provide cover
• Marimo moss balls: Loved by shrimp for grazing

Plants provide hiding spots, additional grazing surfaces, and help maintain water quality by absorbing nitrates.

Lighting

Moderate lighting works best. Avoid intense lighting that promotes excessive algae growth. An 8-10 hour photoperiod mimics natural conditions and promotes healthy plant growth without causing problems.

Heater

A heater is needed if your room temperature drops below 68F (20C). Use an adjustable heater with a protective guard to prevent shrimp from burning themselves. Preset heaters can also work but offer less control.

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Feeding and Diet

Natural Diet

In nature, Neocaridina are biofilm grazers. They constantly pick at surfaces, consuming:

• Bacteria colonies (biofilm)
• Algae
• Decaying plant matter
• Microorganisms
• Detritus

A well-established tank provides significant nutrition without supplemental feeding. This is why new tanks often have shrimp problems: there’s no biofilm yet.

Feeding Guidelines

Frequency: Every 2-3 days (NOT daily)

Amount: What they consume in 2-3 hours

Warning: Overfeeding is the #1 cause of water quality issues and deaths in shrimp tanks. Uneaten food decays, producing ammonia and fouling the water. When in doubt, feed less.

Recommended Foods

Commercial foods:

• Shrimp King Complete (excellent all-around staple)
• Hikari Shrimp Cuisine
• Bacter AE (biofilm booster, not technically food)
• Snowflake food (soybean shells that grow beneficial bacteria)

Blanched vegetables (boil for 2 minutes, then cool):

• Zucchini (most popular)
• Spinach
• Kale
• Cucumber

Protein sources (sparingly, once per week max):

• Blanched egg white
• Fish food pellets
• Dried shrimp/krill

Sample Feeding Schedule

Day	Food
Monday	Shrimp King Complete (1-2 pellets per 10 shrimp)
Tuesday	Fast (no feeding)
Wednesday	Blanched zucchini slice
Thursday	Fast
Friday	Bacter AE (tiny amount)
Saturday	Fast
Sunday	Snowflake food or nothing

Adjust based on your colony size and observe how quickly food disappears.

Calcium Supplementation

Add a small piece of cuttlebone to your tank. It slowly releases calcium, supporting healthy molts. Replace when it dissolves completely (usually every few weeks to months depending on your water chemistry).

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Breeding Neocaridina

Why They’re Easy to Breed

Neocaridina are one of the easiest aquarium inhabitants to breed:

• Breed readily in freshwater (no brackish stage required)
• Females carry eggs until hatching
• Babies are miniature adults (no larval stage)
• Prolific: 20-30 eggs per clutch
• Sexual maturity at 2-3 months

If you have healthy shrimp in proper conditions, breeding will happen automatically.

Identifying Males vs Females

Characteristic	Male	Female
Size	Smaller (0.75-1 inch)	Larger (1-1.5 inches)
Color intensity	Less intense	More colorful
Body shape	Straight belly	Curved belly (especially when berried)
Saddle	None	Visible (eggs in ovaries behind head)

The “saddle” is a key identifier. Look for a yellowish or orange patch behind the head on mature females. This is eggs developing in her ovaries before fertilization.

The Breeding Process

1. Saddle develops: Unfertilized eggs become visible in the female’s ovaries (the saddle)

2. Pre-molt pheromones: Before molting, the female releases pheromones

3. Mating dance: Males detect pheromones and swim frantically around the tank searching for the female

4. Fertilization: After the female molts, mating occurs and eggs are fertilized

5. Berried female: The female carries fertilized eggs under her tail, constantly fanning them with her swimmerets

6. Hatching: After 21-30 days, fully-formed shrimplets emerge

Optimizing Breeding Success

• Maintain stable parameters within optimal ranges
• Temperature 72-76F encourages breeding
• Small temperature drops during water changes can trigger mating
• Occasional protein-rich foods support egg development
• Dense moss provides hiding spots for babies
• Shrimp-only tanks have highest survival rates

Baby Shrimp Survival

Shrimplets face several threats:

• Filter intake: The biggest killer of baby shrimp
• Predation: Fish and even adult shrimp may eat babies
• Starvation: Lack of biofilm in new tanks

To maximize survival:

• Use sponge filters (non-negotiable if breeding)
• Keep shrimp-only tanks
• Let biofilm develop before adding shrimp
• Add Bacter AE to boost biofilm
• Don’t clean obsessively - some mulm provides food
• Provide dense moss for hiding

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Common Problems and Solutions

White Ring of Death

What it is: A white band around the shrimp’s midsection where the shell cracked completely around the body during molting, instead of just at the top where it should split.

Why it’s deadly: The shell breaks into two disconnected halves, trapping the shrimp and preventing escape from the old exoskeleton.

Causes:

• Low GH (primary cause)
• GH/KH imbalance
• Mineral deficiency in diet
• Large water changes forcing premature molts

Can shrimp survive? Possible but unlikely. Most die within 1-2 days.

Prevention:

• Maintain GH at 6-9 dGH
• Add cuttlebone for calcium
• Feed mineral-rich foods (blanched kale, spinach)
• Limit water changes to 10-20% weekly

For more details, see our White Ring of Death guide.

Shrimp Dying After Water Change

This is often blamed on “parameter shock” but the real culprit is usually TDS shock or chlorine/chloramine exposure.

Causes:

• Large TDS difference between tank and new water
• Temperature mismatch
• Chlorine or chloramine in untreated water
• Too large water changes (over 20%)
• Adding water too quickly

Solution:

• Maximum 20% water changes
• Match TDS and temperature exactly
• Always dechlorinate (Seachem Prime recommended)
• Drip new water slowly over 20-30 minutes
• Consider aging new water for 24-48 hours

For more details, see our water change deaths guide.

Shrimp Not Breeding

If your shrimp aren’t breeding after several months, consider:

Environmental factors:

• Parameters outside optimal range
• Tank too new (needs 2-3 months to mature)
• High nitrates (above 30 ppm)
• Insufficient hiding spots

Population factors:

• All same sex (need both males and females)
• Too few shrimp (breeding increases with colony size)
• Stress from tankmates

Solutions:

• Verify parameters are optimal
• Ensure tank is mature with biofilm
• Add more shrimp (ideally 10+ to ensure both sexes)
• Remove stressful tankmates

For more details, see our breeding problems guide.

Failed Molts

Symptoms: Shrimp struggling to escape old shell, partially molted shrimp, deaths with old shell attached.

Causes:

• GH too low or too high
• Large parameter swings
• Temperature fluctuations
• Mineral deficiency

Solutions:

• Test and correct GH (target 6-9 dGH)
• Ensure stable parameters
• Add cuttlebone
• Don’t remove molted shells (shrimp eat them for minerals)

For more details, see our molting problems guide.

Color Loss

Causes:

• Stress from poor conditions
• Inadequate diet
• Light substrate (shrimp often pale on light colors)
• Interbreeding with wild-type genetics
• Natural variation (some shrimp are just less colorful)

Solutions:

• Ensure stable, optimal parameters
• Feed varied, high-quality diet
• Use dark substrate
• Cull less colorful individuals if maintaining a breeding line

For more details, see our color loss guide.

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Frequently Asked Questions

See the FAQ section in the sidebar for the 8 most common questions about Neocaridina care.

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Track Your Parameters with ShrimpKeeper

Stop guessing about your water parameters. The ShrimpKeepersapp was designed specifically for dwarf shrimp enthusiasts like you.

Features built for Neocaridina keepers:

• Species-specific parameter ranges that tell you if your values are optimal
• Instant diagnostics that identify potential problems before they become disasters
• Historical graphs to spot trends and prevent issues
• Remineralization calculator for perfect water every time
• Berried female countdown timer so you don’t miss hatching day

Whether you’re just starting with Cherry Shrimp or managing multiple color colonies, ShrimpKeepershelps you maintain the stable conditions Neocaridina need to thrive.

Download ShrimpKeeper and take the guesswork out of shrimp keeping.

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Related Guides

Ready to expand your shrimp keeping journey? Check out these related guides:

• Caridina Shrimp Care Guide: Learn about Crystal Red Shrimp, Taiwan Bee varieties, and the different requirements for these beautiful but demanding species.

• Sulawesi Shrimp Care Guide: Discover the exotic Cardinal Shrimp and other ancient lake species with their unique high-pH, high-temperature requirements.

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This guide synthesizes information from scientific literature, manufacturer specifications, and experienced hobbyist communities including Aquarium Breeder, The Shrimp Farm, Flip Aquatics, and r/shrimptank. Water parameters have been verified across multiple authoritative sources.