The Complete Sulawesi Shrimp Care Guide

What Are Sulawesi Shrimp?

Sulawesi shrimp are among the most exotic and challenging freshwater shrimp in the aquarium hobby. They originate from the ancient tropical lakes of Sulawesi, Indonesia: Lake Matano, Lake Poso, and Lake Towuti. These lakes formed millions of years ago, creating isolated ecosystems where unique species evolved found nowhere else on Earth.

The ancient isolation of these lakes means Sulawesi shrimp have developed highly specialized requirements. They thrive in conditions that would kill most other aquarium shrimp: high pH, warm temperatures, and alkaline water chemistry that mirrors their native lakes.

Why Sulawesi Are Special

Several factors make Sulawesi shrimp remarkable:

• Endemic species: Found only in a few Indonesian lakes
• Ancient lineage: Evolved in isolation for millions of years
• Unique appearance: Stunning colors and patterns unlike any other shrimp
• Conservation concern: Wild populations face habitat threats
• Ultimate challenge: Represent the pinnacle of shrimp keeping difficulty

If you’ve mastered Neocaridina and want something more challenging than Caridina, Sulawesi represent the final frontier of freshwater shrimp keeping.

The Critical Warning You MUST Understand

Sulawesi requirements are THE COMPLETE OPPOSITE of Caridina Bee shrimp.

This is the most common and deadly mistake made by hobbyists:

• You master Neocaridina (easy)
• You successfully keep Caridina Bee shrimp (intermediate)
• You assume “advanced” Sulawesi need similar care to “intermediate” Caridina
• You add Sulawesi to your Caridina setup
• They die within days

Sulawesi vs Caridina Bee - Opposite Requirements:

Parameter	Caridina Bee	Sulawesi
pH	5.8-6.8 (acidic)	7.5-8.5 (alkaline)
Temperature	68-74F (cool)	78-84F (warm)
KH	0-1 dKH	3-6 dKH
Substrate	Active (buffering)	Inert ONLY
Remineralizer	GH+	Sulawesi Mineral 7.5/8.5

If you currently keep Caridina successfully, you cannot add Sulawesi to that tank. You need a completely different setup.

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Sulawesi vs Caridina Bee: The Critical Differences

Understanding why these differences exist helps prevent deadly mistakes.

Why Are Requirements Opposite?

Evolutionary environment:

Caridina Bee shrimp evolved in cool mountain streams with:

• Soft, acidic water from leaf litter decomposition
• Low mineral content
• Cool temperatures from high elevation
• Acidic conditions (pH 5.5-6.5)

Sulawesi shrimp evolved in ancient tropical lakes with:

• Alkaline water from limestone geology
• Higher mineral content
• Warm equatorial temperatures
• Basic conditions (pH 7.5-8.5)

Common Mistake: “Advanced Means Similar”

Many hobbyists assume:

• Beginner = Neocaridina
• Intermediate = Caridina
• Advanced = “More demanding Caridina”

This is wrong. “Advanced” refers to care difficulty, not parameter similarity. Sulawesi are advanced because they’re sensitive and specific, not because they’re “more Caridina.”

The Equipment You Need Is Different

Equipment	Caridina Setup	Sulawesi Setup
Substrate	Active (ADA Amazonia)	Inert (crushed coral, aragonite)
Remineralizer	Salty Shrimp GH+	Salty Shrimp Sulawesi Mineral 8.5
Heater setting	70-72F	80-82F
pH target	6.0-6.5	7.8-8.2

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All Sulawesi Species (Ranked by Difficulty)

Not all Sulawesi species are equally difficult. Here’s a comprehensive ranking from most accessible to most challenging:

Easiest Sulawesi Species

Blue Leg Poso (Caridina caerulea)

Blue Leg Poso shrimp are considered the easiest Sulawesi species and the best starting point for hobbyists new to this group.

Origin: Lake Poso

Parameters:

• pH: 7.0-8.5
• Temperature: 80-84F (27-29C)
• TDS: 150-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 3-6 dKH

Difficulty: Moderate (easiest Sulawesi overall)

Description: Transparent body with distinctive blue coloration on their legs. Their understated beauty appeals to many keepers. Blue Leg Poso are more tolerant of parameter fluctuations than other Sulawesi species.

Why start here: More forgiving of beginner mistakes, slightly wider parameter tolerance, and generally more available than other species.

Six Banded / Matano Tiger (Caridina holthuisi)

Six Banded shrimp, also known as Matano Tiger, feature distinctive tiger striping patterns that make them visually striking.

Origin: Lake Towuti

Parameters:

• pH: 7.5-8.5
• Temperature: 77-86F (25-30C)
• TDS: 150-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 3-6 dKH

Difficulty: Moderate

Description: Clear or slightly colored body with bold dark stripes resembling tiger markings. The pattern varies between individuals, with some showing more pronounced stripes than others.

Moderate Difficulty

Cardinal Shrimp (Caridina dennerli)

Cardinal Shrimp are the most iconic Sulawesi species, instantly recognizable by their stunning red bodies covered in white spots.

Origin: Lake Matano

Parameters:

• pH: 7.8-8.2
• Temperature: 77-86F (25-30C)
• TDS: 150-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 3-6 dKH

Difficulty: Hard (but easiest of the “hard” species)

Description: Deep red body adorned with bright white spots. Often described as looking like tiny ladybugs. Cardinals are the species most people think of when they hear “Sulawesi shrimp.”

Why they’re popular: Despite their difficulty, Cardinal Shrimp are the most commonly kept Sulawesi species because their appearance is so striking. If you want the iconic Sulawesi experience but are willing to invest in proper care, Cardinals are the choice.

White Orchid / Starry Night (Caridina poso)

White Orchid shrimp display white spots on a transparent or slightly blue-tinted body, creating an ethereal “starry night” appearance.

Origin: Lake Poso

Parameters:

• pH: 7.8-8.4
• Temperature: 80-84F (27-29C)
• TDS: 150-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 3-6 dKH

Difficulty: Hard

Description: Delicate white spotting on a translucent body. Some specimens have a subtle blue or tan tint. The pattern resembles a starry night sky, hence the alternative name.

Difficult Species

Yellow Nose / Gold Flake (Caridina spinata)

Yellow Nose shrimp are named for their distinctive yellow rostrum (the spike between their eyes), often accompanied by gold flake markings on their body.

Origin: Lake Towuti

Parameters:

• pH: 8.0-8.5
• Temperature: 82-84F (28-29C)
• TDS: 180-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 4-6 dKH

Difficulty: Hard

Description: The yellow rostrum is the identifying feature, combined with subtle gold or bronze flakes scattered across the body. Requires higher pH and temperature than some other Sulawesi species.

Harlequin (Caridina spongicola)

Harlequin shrimp are the smallest Sulawesi species and among the most challenging to keep.

Origin: Lake Towuti

Parameters:

• pH: 7.0-8.5
• Temperature: 78-85F (26-29C)
• TDS: 150-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 3-6 dKH

Difficulty: Very Hard

Description: Tiny shrimp with black and red coloration creating a harlequin pattern. In the wild, they live on freshwater sponges, which gives them their scientific name (spongicola means “sponge dweller”).

Special considerations: Their small size makes them extremely vulnerable. They have very specific habitat requirements and often struggle to thrive even when parameters are correct.

Large Harlequin (Caridina woltereckae)

Large Harlequin shrimp are the larger cousin of the standard Harlequin.

Origin: Lake Towuti

Parameters:

• pH: 8.0-8.5
• Temperature: 81-84F (27-29C)
• TDS: 180-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 4-6 dKH

Difficulty: Very Hard

Description: Similar coloration to standard Harlequin but larger. Still extremely challenging to maintain in captivity.

Expert Only

Red Line / Peppermint (Caridina striata)

Red Line shrimp are considered the most difficult Sulawesi species to keep alive in captivity.

Origin: Lake Towuti

Parameters:

• pH: 8.0-8.5
• Temperature: 81-84F (27-29C)
• TDS: 180-250 ppm
• GH: 6-8 dGH
• KH: 4-6 dKH

Difficulty: Extremely Hard

Description: Beautiful red striping pattern on a lighter body, sometimes described as “peppermint” coloring. Their striking appearance is matched by their extreme sensitivity.

Warning: Red Line shrimp should only be attempted by experienced Sulawesi keepers who have successfully maintained other species for extended periods. Even then, success is not guaranteed.

Species Difficulty Summary

Rank	Species	Difficulty	Best For
1	Blue Leg Poso	Moderate	Beginners to Sulawesi
2	Six Banded	Moderate	Beginners to Sulawesi
3	Cardinal Shrimp	Hard	Those wanting iconic species
4	White Orchid	Hard	Intermediate Sulawesi keepers
5	Yellow Nose	Hard	Intermediate keepers
6	Harlequin	Very Hard	Experienced keepers only
7	Large Harlequin	Very Hard	Experienced keepers only
8	Red Line	Extremely Hard	Expert keepers only

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Water Parameters

Why Sulawesi Parameters Are Unique

The ancient lakes of Sulawesi have specific mineral compositions created by millions of years of geological processes. The limestone-rich geology creates alkaline conditions very different from most freshwater environments.

Sulawesi shrimp evolved to:

• Thrive in alkaline water (pH 7.5-8.5)
• Tolerate warm tropical temperatures (78-84F)
• Utilize specific mineral ratios found in their native lakes
• Depend on the unique microbial communities in these ecosystems

TDS for Sulawesi

Target Range: 150-250 ppm (optimal 180-220 ppm)

TDS Range	Assessment
Below 120 ppm	Too low, mineral deficiency
150-250 ppm	Optimal range
250-300 ppm	Acceptable
Above 300 ppm	May cause stress

Interestingly, Sulawesi TDS requirements are similar to Neocaridina, but the mineral composition is completely different. You cannot use Neocaridina water for Sulawesi.

For detailed information, see our TDS parameter guide.

GH for Sulawesi

Target Range: 6-8 dGH (optimal 6-7 dGH)

GH Range	Assessment
Below 5 dGH	Too low
6-8 dGH	Optimal
8-10 dGH	Acceptable
Above 10 dGH	May cause issues

Calcium and magnesium are essential for healthy molts. The Sulawesi Mineral remineralizer provides the correct ratio of these minerals.

For detailed information, see our GH parameter guide.

KH for Sulawesi

Target Range: 3-6 dKH (optimal 4-5 dKH)

KH Range	Assessment
Below 2 dKH	Too low, pH unstable
3-6 dKH	Optimal
6-8 dKH	Acceptable
Above 8 dKH	Generally unnecessary

Critical difference from Caridina: While Caridina Bee shrimp need 0 KH, Sulawesi require KH to maintain their high pH. This is a fundamental difference that cannot be ignored.

For detailed information, see our KH parameter guide.

pH for Sulawesi

Target Range: 7.5-8.5 (optimal 7.8-8.2)

pH Range	Assessment
Below 7.0	Too acidic, stress and death
7.5-8.5	Optimal range
Above 9.0	Too alkaline

Why high pH matters: Sulawesi evolved in alkaline lake water. Their gill ion exchange, enzyme systems, and metabolic processes are optimized for basic conditions. Acidic water disrupts these fundamental biological processes.

For detailed information, see our pH parameter guide.

Temperature for Sulawesi

Target Range: 77-86F (25-30C) optimal 78-84F (26-29C)

Temperature	Assessment
Below 75F (24C)	Too cold, metabolic stress
77-86F (25-30C)	Optimal range
78-84F (26-29C)	Ideal sweet spot
Above 88F (31C)	Risk of overheating

Critical difference from other shrimp: While Neocaridina prefer 70-76F and Caridina prefer 68-74F, Sulawesi need temperatures that would stress or kill other species. This is not optional; it’s a biological requirement.

Temperature stability is crucial: Fluctuations stress Sulawesi more than many other shrimp. Use a reliable, adjustable heater and consider a heater controller for backup.

For detailed information, see our temperature parameter guide.

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Tank Setup Requirements

Absolute Requirements

Certain elements are non-negotiable for Sulawesi success:

RO/DI Water

Why required: Lake Sulawesi water chemistry cannot be replicated with tap water. You need pure water that you can remineralize precisely.

Target: 0-5 TDS from your RO system before adding remineralizer.

Sulawesi-Specific Remineralizer

The only acceptable options:

• Salty Shrimp Sulawesi Mineral 8.5: For most species (Cardinal, Yellow Nose, Harlequin, Red Line)
• Salty Shrimp Sulawesi Mineral 7.5: For some Lake Poso species (Blue Leg Poso, some White Orchid populations)

Important note about Sulawesi Mineral 8.5: This product requires special preparation:

1. Add powder to RO water
2. Inject CO2 or let sit open for 3-4 days (the mineral needs CO2 to dissolve completely)
3. Aerate thoroughly before use (to remove excess CO2)

Do NOT use:

• Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ (wrong mineral composition)
• Salty Shrimp GH+ (too low pH, wrong composition)
• Any Caridina or Neocaridina remineralizer

Inert Substrate ONLY

Critical: Do NOT use active/buffering substrates (ADA Amazonia, Fluval Stratum, etc.). These will crash your pH and kill Sulawesi.

Recommended substrates:

• Crushed coral (helps maintain alkaline pH)
• Aragonite sand (also buffers toward alkalinity)
• Lava rock
• Bare bottom (acceptable but less aesthetic)

These substrates either remain neutral or help maintain the high pH Sulawesi need.

Reliable Heater

Sulawesi require higher temperatures than most aquarium inhabitants. You need:

• Adjustable heater (50-100W depending on tank size)
• Set to 80-82F for most species
• Consider a heater controller as backup
• Monitor temperature daily initially

Recommended Tank Setup

10-20 gallon tank
|-- Substrate: Crushed coral / aragonite mix (1" depth)
|-- Filter: Dual sponge filter
|-- Heater: Adjustable 100W (set to 80-82F)
|-- Lighting: Moderate (8-10 hours for algae growth)
|-- Hardscape: Lava rock, dragon stone (NO driftwood)
|-- Plants: Java Moss, Anubias (optional)
|-- Water: RO + Salty Shrimp Sulawesi Mineral 8.5

Notes:

• Avoid driftwood: It releases tannins that lower pH
• Lava rock and dragon stone are pH-neutral or slightly alkaline
• Java Moss provides cover for babies but isn’t required
• Moderate lighting encourages algae growth (natural food source)

Tank Maturation is CRITICAL

Minimum maturation: 2-3 months after cycle completes

Ideal maturation: 4-6 months with established biofilm and algae growth

Sulawesi failures often come from impatience. These shrimp evolved in ancient, stable ecosystems. They don’t handle new, unstable tanks well. The tank needs time to develop:

• Stable bacterial colonies
• Natural biofilm on surfaces
• Algae growth (their primary food in nature)
• Consistent parameters without fluctuation

Colony Size Matters

Recommended starting colony: 15-25+ individuals

Sulawesi do best in larger groups. They display more natural behavior, breed more readily, and seem to have better survival rates in larger colonies. Starting with just 5-6 shrimp often leads to failure.

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Feeding Sulawesi

Natural Diet

In their native lakes, Sulawesi graze on:

• Aufwuchs (organisms growing on rock surfaces)
• Algae
• Biofilm
• Microscopic organisms

A well-established tank should provide most of their nutritional needs naturally.

Feeding Guidelines

Frequency: Every 3-4 days at most

Amount: Tiny portions, consumed within 1-2 hours

Key principle: The tank should provide most nutrition. Supplemental feeding should be minimal.

Recommended Foods

Biofilm boosters (most important):

• Bacter AE
• SL-Aqua Milione

These products encourage biofilm growth rather than providing direct nutrition. In Sulawesi tanks, biofilm is more important than commercial foods.

Supplemental foods (sparingly):

• Spirulina wafers (crushed small)
• Glasgarten
• Borneo Wild
• Blanched vegetables (rarely)

Avoid:

• Heavy protein foods
• Large food portions
• Daily feeding

Overfeeding Risk

Overfeeding is even more dangerous in Sulawesi tanks than with other shrimp:

• Soft water = faster decomposition
• Warmer temperatures = faster bacterial growth
• Excess food = ammonia spikes = death

When in doubt, don’t feed. A healthy Sulawesi tank has enough natural food sources that your shrimp won’t starve.

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Breeding Sulawesi

Why Breeding Is Difficult

Sulawesi are notoriously difficult to breed in captivity:

• Very specific parameter requirements: Less room for error than any other shrimp
• Lower fecundity: Fewer eggs per clutch (10-20) compared to Neocaridina (20-30)
• Longer gestation: Extended time carrying eggs
• Microscopic babies: Shrimplets are extremely small and vulnerable
• Low survival rates: Even experienced keepers lose many babies
• Slow reproduction: Population growth is much slower than other species

Prerequisites for Breeding

Before expecting breeding, ensure:

1. Mature tank: Minimum 6 months old, ideally longer
2. Stable parameters: Perfect parameters maintained for extended periods
3. Large colony: 15-25+ individuals minimum
4. Abundant biofilm: Primary food source for adults and babies
5. Minimal disturbance: Avoid frequent tank maintenance
6. Patience: Lots of it

Breeding Tips

Parameter stability is everything: Even small fluctuations can disrupt breeding. Sulawesi breed when they feel safe in a stable environment.

Avoid water changes while females are berried: Any parameter shift can cause egg dropping. Do water changes between clutches if possible.

Small water changes only: Maximum 10-15% when necessary, with exactly matched parameters.

Don’t rush: Breeding may not occur for 6-12 months after setup. This is normal.

Baby Survival

Sulawesi babies face significant challenges:

• Microscopic size: Extremely vulnerable to predation and filtration
• Slow growth: Takes longer to reach safe size
• High mortality: Expected even in ideal conditions

Maximize survival by:

• Using only sponge filters
• Maintaining abundant biofilm
• Dense moss or hiding spots
• Shrimp-only tank (mandatory)
• Not disturbing the tank
• Patience and acceptance of losses

Realistic Expectations

Even successful Sulawesi breeders experience:

• Long periods without breeding
• High baby mortality
• Slow population growth
• Occasional unexplained losses

If you want rapid population growth and easy breeding, Neocaridina are a much better choice. Sulawesi breeding is a long-term project requiring patience and dedication.

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Common Problems and Solutions

Sudden Deaths

Most common cause: Parameter instability, especially temperature or pH swings.

Investigation steps:

1. Check heater function immediately
2. Test pH, GH, KH, TDS
3. Verify temperature (use separate thermometer)
4. Check for any equipment failures
5. Review recent changes (water change, new additions, etc.)

Prevention:

• Use reliable heater with backup
• Monitor parameters twice daily initially
• Avoid frequent water changes
• Maintain consistent routine

For more details, see our Sulawesi sudden deaths guide.

Not Breeding After 6+ Months

Common causes:

• Tank not mature enough
• Colony too small (need 15+ individuals)
• Parameters not stable
• Too much disturbance
• Poor biofilm development

Solutions:

• Wait longer (breeding may take 12+ months)
• Add more individuals to the colony
• Reduce maintenance frequency
• Add Bacter AE to boost biofilm
• Verify all parameters are optimal

For more details, see our Sulawesi not breeding guide.

Deaths After Water Change

Cause: Parameter shock (Sulawesi are extremely sensitive)

Prevention:

• Maximum 10-15% water changes
• Match ALL parameters exactly (TDS, temperature, pH)
• Drip acclimate new water slowly over 1+ hours
• Only change water when absolutely necessary

pH Dropping

Causes:

• CO2 buildup (insufficient surface agitation)
• Insufficient KH
• Organic decomposition
• Driftwood in tank (should be removed)

Solutions:

• Increase aeration and surface agitation
• Verify KH is 3-6 dKH
• Remove any driftwood
• Check for excess organic matter

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Frequently Asked Questions

See the FAQ section in the sidebar for the 8 most common questions about Sulawesi care.

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Track Your Sulawesi with ShrimpKeeper

Sulawesi require the most precise, stable parameters of any freshwater shrimp. With specimens costing $15-50+ each and colonies requiring 15-25+ individuals, the investment is significant. Don’t leave success to chance.

The ShrimpKeepersapp provides the precision tracking Sulawesi demand.

Features built for Sulawesi keepers:

• Sulawesi-specific parameter ranges with instant feedback
• Temperature stability monitoring with trend alerts
• pH tracking to detect substrate issues early
• Remineralization calculator for Sulawesi Mineral 7.5 and 8.5
• Historical graphs to identify parameter drift before problems occur
• Tank maturation tracking to know when conditions are stable

Your Sulawesi deserve meticulous care. ShrimpKeepershelps you provide it.

Download ShrimpKeeper and give your Sulawesi the precision monitoring they need.

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Related Guides

Explore the full spectrum of shrimp keeping:

• Neocaridina Shrimp Care Guide: The beginner-friendly starting point. Hardy, colorful, and forgiving of mistakes. Perfect for learning shrimp keeping fundamentals.

• Caridina Shrimp Care Guide: The intermediate challenge. Requires RO water and active substrate with OPPOSITE parameters from Sulawesi. Don’t confuse the two!

Important reminder: Sulawesi and Caridina Bee have opposite requirements. Success with one does not transfer to the other. Treat each as a completely separate learning journey.

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This guide synthesizes information from scientific literature, manufacturer specifications (Salty Shrimp), experienced Sulawesi keeper communities, and academic resources on Lake Matano, Lake Poso, and Lake Towuti ecosystems. Water parameters have been verified across multiple authoritative sources specializing in Sulawesi shrimp care.