Ammonia (Ammonia (NH3/NH4+))

What is Ammonia?

Ammonia is the first and most toxic compound in the nitrogen cycle. It’s produced directly from:

• Shrimp and fish waste (respiration and excretion)
• Decomposing organic matter (dead animals, uneaten food, rotting plants)
• Tap water (if your municipal supply uses chloramine)

In your tank, ammonia exists in two forms that stay in chemical balance:

• NH3 (Free ammonia) - Extremely toxic, can cross cell membranes
• NH4+ (Ammonium) - Less toxic, but still not harmless

The ratio between these forms depends on pH and temperature. Higher pH = more toxic NH3. This makes ammonia particularly dangerous in Sulawesi and Neocaridina tanks with higher pH levels.

Why Ammonia Must Be Zero

Unlike other parameters where ranges are acceptable, ammonia has no safe level above zero for shrimp. Even small amounts cause:

Immediate Effects

• Gill damage (burning sensation, inability to breathe properly)
• Nervous system damage
• Disorientation and erratic swimming
• Death within hours at high concentrations

Chronic Effects (Low Levels)

• Weakened immune system
• Increased disease susceptibility
• Failed molts
• Reduced breeding
• Shortened lifespan

Shrimp are more sensitive to ammonia than most fish. A level that causes mild stress in a hardy fish can kill shrimp quickly.

The Nitrogen Cycle

Understanding the nitrogen cycle is essential for every shrimp keeper:

Ammonia (NH3) --> Nitrite (NO2) --> Nitrate (NO3)
      |               |               |
   Toxic!          Toxic!        Less toxic
                                (at low levels)

Beneficial bacteria perform these conversions:

1. Nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite
2. Nitrobacter bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate

These bacteria colonies take 4-8 weeks to establish in a new tank. This is why “cycling” is mandatory before adding shrimp.

New Tank Syndrome

“New Tank Syndrome” describes what happens when livestock is added before cycling completes:

1. Shrimp produce waste (ammonia)
2. Few bacteria exist to process it
3. Ammonia builds up
4. Shrimp become stressed or die
5. Dead shrimp add more ammonia
6. Cycle of death

This is the #1 killer of shrimp for new hobbyists. Always cycle your tank completely before adding shrimp.

How to Cycle a Tank (Fishless)

1. Set up tank completely - substrate, filter, heater, decorations
2. Add ammonia source - pure ammonia (unscented), fish food, or shrimp food
3. Dose to 2-4 ppm ammonia
4. Wait and test - Ammonia drops, nitrite rises, then both drop, nitrate rises
5. Cycle is complete when - 2 ppm ammonia converts to 0 ammonia + 0 nitrite within 24 hours
6. Do large water change to remove accumulated nitrates before adding shrimp

Emergency Response to Ammonia Spikes

If you detect ammonia in an established tank with shrimp:

Immediate Actions

1. Large water change (50%+) - Dilute the ammonia immediately
2. Dose Seachem Prime - Detoxifies ammonia for 24-48 hours
3. Stop feeding - No new waste input
4. Increase aeration - Stressed shrimp need more oxygen

Find the Source

• Check for dead animals (snails, shrimp, fish)
• Remove any uneaten food
• Check filter is running properly
• Test tap water for chloramine

Ongoing Treatment

• Test ammonia twice daily
• Water change when Prime wears off (24-48 hours)
• Continue Prime dosing until bacteria recover
• Add beneficial bacteria products to speed recovery

Ammonia and pH

The toxicity formula you need to know:

Higher pH = More toxic NH3 form = More dangerous

At pH 6.0, most ammonia is in the less toxic NH4+ form. At pH 8.0, a significant portion converts to highly toxic NH3.

This is why Sulawesi keepers at pH 8+ must be especially vigilant about ammonia, while Caridina tanks at pH 6.0-6.5 have a small buffer (though zero is still the goal).