What is Nitrite?
Nitrite (NO2-) is the second compound in the nitrogen cycle, produced when beneficial bacteria (Nitrosomonas) convert ammonia. It’s an intermediate product that gets further converted to nitrate by a second group of bacteria (Nitrobacter).
Like ammonia, nitrite has no safe level for shrimp - it must always be 0 ppm in an established tank. Any detectable nitrite indicates either an incomplete cycle or a cycle crash.
The Mid-Cycle Danger
During tank cycling, nitrite often becomes the bigger problem after ammonia is under control:
The Typical Cycling Pattern
Week 1-2: Ammonia rises, no nitrite Week 2-4: Ammonia-eating bacteria establish, ammonia drops, nitrite SPIKES Week 4-6: Nitrite-eating bacteria establish, nitrite drops, nitrate rises Week 6+: Cycle complete - both ammonia and nitrite at 0
The nitrite spike phase is often when impatient new hobbyists add shrimp, thinking “ammonia is zero, it must be safe.” This is a critical mistake - the nitrite spike can be more dangerous than the initial ammonia phase.
How Nitrite Kills
Nitrite is toxic through a specific mechanism: it binds to hemocyanin, the oxygen-carrying protein in shrimp blood (analogous to hemoglobin in humans). When nitrite binds to hemocyanin:
- The hemocyanin can no longer carry oxygen effectively
- Shrimp begin to suffocate at the cellular level
- Blood color changes from normal blue-green to brown
- This condition is called “brown blood disease”
The cruel irony is that shrimp can be gasping in water saturated with oxygen - the oxygen is there, but their blood can’t transport it. Adding more aeration doesn’t help once nitrite toxicity sets in.
Sensitivity Comparison
Invertebrates like shrimp are generally MORE sensitive to nitrite than fish. While some hardy fish can tolerate brief nitrite exposure, shrimp have very little tolerance. Levels that would merely stress a fish can kill shrimp quickly.
Signs of Nitrite Poisoning
Early Signs
- Lethargy and reduced activity
- Loss of appetite
- Staying near water surface or filter output (seeking oxygen)
- Pale coloration
Advanced Signs
- Erratic swimming
- Lying on side
- Visible color change (brownish tint)
- Mass die-offs
Once advanced symptoms appear, it’s often too late to save affected shrimp.
Emergency Response
If you detect nitrite with shrimp in the tank:
Immediate Actions
- 50%+ water change - Dilute nitrite immediately
- Dose Seachem Prime - Detoxifies nitrite for 24-48 hours
- Maximize aeration - Help struggling shrimp access what oxygen they can
- Stop feeding - Reduce waste production
Continued Treatment
- Test nitrite twice daily
- Water change whenever Prime wears off
- Continue until nitrite stays at 0 for several days
- Add beneficial bacteria to speed recovery
If Possible
- Move shrimp to a fully cycled tank
- A temporary holding container with cycled filter media is better than nitrite exposure
Why Nitrite Spikes Happen
During Initial Cycling
This is normal and expected. Simply wait without adding livestock until both ammonia and nitrite process to 0 within 24 hours.
In Established Tanks
Filter Issues:
- Cleaning filter media with chlorinated tap water (kills bacteria!)
- Filter mechanical failure (no oxygen flow to bacteria)
- Replacing all filter media at once (removes bacteria colony)
Environmental Shocks:
- Major pH swing (bacteria are pH sensitive)
- Temperature spike or crash
- Medication use (antibiotics kill beneficial bacteria)
- Sudden salinity change
Overload:
- Major die-off (dead animals producing ammonia faster than bacteria can process)
- Severe overfeeding
- Sudden large increase in bioload
Cycling Patience
The #1 protection against nitrite problems is proper cycling BEFORE adding shrimp:
Minimum: 4-6 weeks with ammonia source Better: 6-8 weeks Best: 2-3 months (allows biofilm development too)
Test to confirm: The tank is cycled when 2 ppm ammonia converts to 0 ammonia + 0 nitrite within 24 hours, multiple times. Nitrate should be present (showing the full cycle is working).
No shortcut is worth dead shrimp. Let the bacteria establish fully before adding your colony.
Nitrite by Species Family
Different shrimp families have evolved in different environments, leading to varying nitrite requirements. Understanding these differences is crucial for successful shrimp keeping.
| Family | Acceptable Range | Optimal Range | Example Species | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neocaridina | 0-0 ppm | 0-0 ppm | Cherry Shrimp | Hardy, tolerates wider ranges |
| Caridina | 0-0 ppm | 0-0 ppm | Crystal Red Shrimp | Sensitive, requires stable parameters |
| Sulawesi | 0-0 ppm | 0-0 ppm | Cardinal Shrimp | Unique requirements, warm alkaline water |
Sensitive, requires stable parameters
Unique requirements, warm alkaline water
Stability Over Perfection
While hitting optimal ranges is ideal, stability is more important than exact numbers. Consistent parameters within the acceptable range are better than fluctuating values that occasionally hit optimal.
How to Test Nitrite
Accurate testing is essential for maintaining proper nitrite levels. Here are the most common testing methods, each with their own trade-offs.
Liquid Test Kit
Pros
- Accurate detection of low levels
- Color chart shows concentration
- Reliable results
Cons
- Takes 5 minutes for reading
- Purple/blue color can be hard to read
Test Strips
Pros
- Quick results
- Multiple parameters at once
- Good for cycling monitoring
Cons
- Less precise than liquid
- May miss very low levels
Quick Comparison
| Method | Accuracy | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Liquid Test Kit | High | $ | Recommended choice |
| Test Strips | Medium | $ | General use |
Testing Tip
Test at the same time of day for consistent results. Water parameters can fluctuate based on feeding, lighting, and CO2 levels. Morning tests before lights-on often provide the most stable readings.
How to Adjust Nitrite
Sometimes you need to adjust your nitrite levels. Here are safe methods for both raising and lowering values. Always make changes gradually - sudden parameter swings can stress or kill shrimp.
How to Lower Nitrite
Decrease nitrite levels
Large Water Change (50%+)
Immediately dilute nitrite with dechlorinated, parameter-matched water
Seachem Prime
Temporarily detoxifies nitrite for 24-48 hours
Add Beneficial Bacteria
Bottled bacteria (Seachem Stability, Fritz Turbo Start) help establish nitrite-consuming bacteria
Wait for Cycle to Complete
If cycling without livestock, simply wait - nitrite spike is normal and will resolve
Warnings
- Any detectable nitrite is dangerous for shrimp
- Nitrite is often MORE toxic than ammonia to invertebrates
- If shrimp are present during nitrite spike, remove them if possible
Critical Safety Notice
Never make sudden, large changes to water parameters. Shrimp are extremely sensitive to parameter swings. All adjustments should be made gradually over hours or days, not minutes. When in doubt, go slower. Test frequently during adjustments to monitor progress.
Nitrite FAQ
This is the classic 'mid-cycle' pattern. Bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite have established, but bacteria that convert nitrite to nitrate haven't caught up yet. Ammonia gets processed quickly (reading 0), but nitrite accumulates. This stage typically lasts 1-3 weeks during cycling.
Nitrite poisoning causes 'brown blood disease' because nitrite binds to hemocyanin (shrimp blood protein), preventing oxygen transport - similar to carbon monoxide poisoning in humans. Affected animals essentially suffocate even in oxygen-rich water. The blood turns brown instead of its normal blue-green color.
Shrimp are extremely sensitive to nitrite - even low levels (0.25-0.5 ppm) can be lethal within 24-48 hours. Higher concentrations can kill within hours. Invertebrates generally tolerate nitrite even worse than fish do, making it particularly dangerous in shrimp tanks.
Plants have limited ability to absorb nitrite directly - they prefer ammonia or nitrate. While some uptake occurs, don't rely on plants to solve a nitrite problem. Beneficial bacteria are the only reliable way to convert nitrite to nitrate.
In fish, chloride ions (from salt) compete with nitrite at the gills, reducing uptake. However, shrimp are freshwater invertebrates that generally don't tolerate salt well. The cure would be worse than the disease. For shrimp, water changes and Prime are the safe options.
Established cycles can crash from: cleaning filter media with chlorinated water (kills bacteria), antibiotics/medications, long power outages (bacteria die without oxygen flow), major pH swings, or sudden temperature changes. The cycle needs to re-establish, similar to initial cycling.
Track Your Nitrite with ShrimpKeeper
Stop guessing. Start tracking. ShrimpKeeper gives you species-specific nitrite ranges, instant diagnostics, and historical graphs for your colony.
Nitrite Problems & Troubleshooting
Baby Shrimp (Shrimplets) Dying
HighWhy newborn shrimp disappear or die when adult shrimp seem healthy. Covers filter intake, predation, starvation, and sensitivity issues specific to shrimplets.
Bacterial Infection in Shrimp
HighIdentifying and treating bacterial infections in aquarium shrimp. Learn to recognize symptoms and understand why prevention through water quality is more effective than treatment.
Why Are My Shrimp Dying?
CriticalComprehensive triage guide for unexplained shrimp deaths. Learn to identify the cause and take immediate action to save your remaining colony.
Shrimp Hiding All The Time
LowUnderstanding why shrimp stay hidden and when it's normal behavior versus a sign of problems. Learn the difference between shrimp being shy and shrimp being stressed.