About Crystal Red Shrimp
Crystal Red Shrimp (CRS) are one of the most iconic and sought-after ornamental shrimp in the aquarium hobby. Originally discovered in Japan in the early 1990s by breeder Hisayasu Suzuki, these stunning shrimp are the result of a spontaneous mutation in the wild-type Bee Shrimp (Caridina cantonensis). What began as a single red and white mutant has been selectively bred for decades into the incredible variety of patterns we see today. The appeal of Crystal Red Shrimp lies in their striking appearance and the challenge of breeding high-grade specimens. Unlike hardy Neocaridina species, CRS demand precise water parameters - soft, acidic water with very low mineral content. This requirement stems from their original habitat in Southern China's soft water streams. Most keepers use RO water remineralized specifically for Caridina species, combined with buffering substrates that maintain the low pH these shrimp require. Grading CRS is an art form in itself, with elaborate naming conventions like Hinomaru (circle on head), No Entry (white with red stripe), Mosura, Crown, and Flower Head describing increasingly rare and valuable patterns. The pinnacle of CRS breeding produces nearly all-white shrimp with only traces of red on their faces - specimens that can command prices of $100 or more. For many serious shrimp keepers, breeding higher-grade CRS becomes a rewarding long-term pursuit.
Quick Facts
Water Parameters for Crystal Red Shrimp
Maintaining stable water parameters is crucial for the health and coloration of Crystal Red Shrimp. As a Caridina species, they require more specific water conditions and are less tolerant of parameter swings.
| Parameter | Range | Optimal |
|---|---|---|
| TDS | 100-150 ppm | 120-150 ppm |
| GH | 4-6 dGH | 4-5 dGH |
| KH | 0-2 dKH | 0-1 dKH |
| pH | 5.8-6.8 | 6-6.4 |
| Temperature | 68-75°F (20-24°C) | 70-73°F |
Tank Setup for Crystal Red Shrimp
- Active buffering substrate is non-negotiable - plan for replacement every 12-18 months as buffering depletes
- Heavily plant the tank with mosses, Bucephalandra, and other low-light plants
- Use sponge filters or matten filters - HOB and canister outflows can trap shrimplets
- Include plenty of hardscape and botanicals for biofilm development and hiding spots
- Avoid CO2 injection at levels that drop pH too far - CRS prefer stable over extreme parameters
Care Tips for Crystal Red Shrimp
- Use RO water remineralized with Caridina-specific GH+ minerals only - never use tap water
- Active buffering substrate like ADA Amazonia, SL-Aqua, or Brightwell is essential to maintain pH
- Keep TDS between 100-150 ppm - use a TDS meter to monitor consistently
- Maintain temperature stability - even small fluctuations can cause stress and failed molts
- Perform small weekly water changes (10%) with properly remineralized RO water
- Avoid any copper-based medications or fertilizers - copper is lethal to Caridina
- Use only shrimp-safe products; many aquarium chemicals are harmful to sensitive Caridina
Feeding Crystal Red Shrimp
- Feed high-quality Caridina-specific foods like Shrimp King, Glasgarten, or Borneowide products
- Biofilm and aufwuchs should form the primary diet - ensure tank is well-established before adding shrimp
- Supplement with blanched vegetables and leaves - Indian Almond Leaves are excellent
- Feed sparingly - 2-3 times per week is sufficient; overfeeding causes water quality issues
- Provide mineral supplements and calcium for healthy molting
Breeding Crystal Red Shrimp
- Higher grades breed true more reliably when both parents are similar quality
- Females carry 15-25 eggs that develop over 28-35 days before hatching as miniature adults
- Culling lower-grade offspring is necessary to maintain or improve colony quality over generations
- Can be crossed with Crystal Black Shrimp - offspring will be either red or black, not mixed
- Crossing with Taiwan Bee varieties creates hybrid offspring with unpredictable patterns
Crystal Red Shrimp Grading System
Crystal Red Shrimp are commonly graded based on color intensity, coverage, and pattern quality. Higher grades typically command higher prices and are the result of selective breeding.
C Grade
Entry-level CRS with mostly red coloring and minimal white. Often translucent with thin or broken white bands.
Characteristics
- Mostly red body
- Thin white bands
- May have translucent areas
- Bands often incomplete
B Grade
Better white coverage than C grade with more defined bands, but white may still be thin or uneven.
Characteristics
- Clearer white bands
- More defined pattern
- Some translucency possible
- Improved color density
A Grade
Good quality CRS with solid white bands covering significant portions of the body. White is more opaque.
Characteristics
- Solid white bands
- Opaque coloring
- Well-defined patterns
- Minimal translucency
S Grade
High-quality shrimp with excellent white coverage. May show Hinomaru or other desirable patterns.
Characteristics
- Thick white coverage
- Clean pattern edges
- May show Hinomaru pattern
- Bright, solid colors
SS Grade
Premium grade with exceptional white coverage, often showing No Entry or Mosura patterns with minimal red.
Characteristics
- Extensive white coverage
- No Entry or Mosura pattern
- Minimal red coloring
- Extremely opaque white
SSS Grade (Mosura)
The highest grade with nearly all-white body, red limited to small areas like the face. Includes Crown and Flower Head patterns.
Characteristics
- Almost entirely white body
- Red only on face/head
- Crown or Flower Head pattern
- Perfect color intensity
Grades listed from lowest to highest quality
Common Problems with Crystal Red Shrimp
- Failed molts often indicate mineral imbalance - check GH and ensure proper remineralization
- Deaths after water changes suggest parameter mismatch - always match new water to tank water exactly
- White ring of death (white band around body) indicates calcium deficiency or molting problems
- Bacterial infections appear as milky coloration - maintain pristine water quality and quarantine affected shrimp
- Planaria and other predators can decimate shrimplet populations - use planaria traps or fenbendazole carefully
Troubleshooting Crystal Red Shrimp
Caridina are particularly sensitive to water quality issues and parameter swings. Here are common problems to watch for:
Failed Molt: Shrimp Stuck in Shell
Understanding failed molts where shrimp cannot escape their old exoskeleton. Learn why it happens, why affected shrimp cannot be saved, and how to prevent future molt failures.
Why Are My Shrimp Dying?
Comprehensive triage guide for unexplained shrimp deaths. Learn to identify the cause and take immediate action to save your remaining colony.
White Ring of Death in Shrimp
Understanding the dreaded white ring or white line that appears around a shrimp's body, signaling a fatal molting problem that cannot be reversed once visible.
Baby Shrimp (Shrimplets) Dying
Why newborn shrimp disappear or die when adult shrimp seem healthy. Covers filter intake, predation, starvation, and sensitivity issues specific to shrimplets.
Bacterial Infection in Shrimp
Identifying and treating bacterial infections in aquarium shrimp. Learn to recognize symptoms and understand why prevention through water quality is more effective than treatment.
Planaria in Shrimp Tank
Identifying and eliminating planaria flatworms that prey on shrimp, especially shrimplets. Learn safe treatment methods that won't harm your colony.
Crystal Red Shrimp FAQ
CRS grades (C, B, A, S, SS, SSS) are based on white coverage and pattern. Lower grades (C/B) have more red with thin white bands, while higher grades (SS/SSS) are mostly white with minimal red. Special patterns like Hinomaru, No Entry, Mosura, Crown, and Flower Head indicate premium specimens.
No, Crystal Red Shrimp cannot thrive in tap water. They require soft, acidic water with low TDS (100-150), low GH (4-6), and virtually no KH (0-2). Most keepers use RO water remineralized with Caridina-specific GH+ products.
Common causes include: TDS or pH swings from improper water changes, depleted substrate no longer buffering pH, copper exposure from medications or pipes, ammonia spikes, or temperature fluctuations. Test all parameters and ensure water change water matches tank conditions exactly.
Yes, CRS and CBS are the same species (Caridina cantonensis) and will interbreed freely. Offspring will be either red or black (the genes don't blend), and mixing can improve genetic diversity while maintaining both color lines.
Active buffering substrates typically last 12-24 months before their buffering capacity depletes. When pH begins rising or becoming unstable, it's time to replace the substrate. Some keepers set up new tanks in advance to cycle before transferring shrimp.
Popular choices include ADA Amazonia, SL-Aqua Nature Soil, Brightwell Aquatics FlorinVolcanit, and Controsoil. These active substrates buffer pH to the low 6 range and provide optimal conditions. Avoid inert substrates as they won't maintain the acidic conditions CRS need.
Improving grades requires selective breeding: keep only your highest-grade specimens for breeding, cull or sell lower grades, and maintain multiple breeding tanks to select the best offspring. Purchasing high-grade breeding stock accelerates improvement, but genetics take generations to establish.
Track Your Crystal Red Shrimp Parameters
Stop guessing. Start tracking. ShrimpKeeper gives you species-specific parameter ranges, instant diagnostics, and historical graphs for your Crystal Red Shrimp colony.